After
searching for about 5 years, I have finally got my hands on another
of Bauer's elusive Royal series cameras. This time it is the
Royal 8E Makro. This search also brought about a new experience,
namely bidding on an auction that was almost exclusively written
in German. I finally stumbled across "eBay Germany" and
discovered I could still use my username. Of course, the descriptions
were entirely in German but thanks to a free translation
tool
on the internet I was able to figure out whether the camera
descriptions stated if the camera worked or not.

Actually,
I had found two Royal's on the German eBay site, a Royal 10E and
a Royal 8E Makro. I missed out on the Royal 10E as I felt I did
not want to bid too high on my first foreign endeavour - it sold
for under $100 though. Then I came across a minty Royal 8E with
all
of
its paperwork.
The deal
closed at $35 Euros as I was the only bidder. My general impression
of the German auction site is that super 8 cameras sell for very
low prices often with few or no bidders on the more popular cameras.
I have seen many Bauer Royal C cameras sell for under $10 and this
includes the "trick" attachment. The 8E's and 10E's typically
sell for 30 to 90 Euros.

My Bauer Royal 8E is a subtantially larger camera than it's non-Royal
counterparts. The heft is nice and perfect in my opinion. The finish
is superb as well. Optically, the image is not as bright as you get
from a late model Canon but then again this camera was designed in
the late 1960's.

Perhaps the most
interesting feature of most of the Royal series cameras is the second
light meter that swings
out from the side of the body.
It is used in extremely low light conditions in conjunction with a
timer function that allows each frame of film to be exposed for a calculated
length of time to render an image. Use of a tripod is a must. For
example, to use the camera on the street at night, you would set the
timer to
between 2 and 12 seconds to set the scene length. Then, press the start
button and let the camera do the rest. It
will expose EACH FRAME for a calculated length of time based on available
light and the time set
for the scene. Very similar to a "B" function on a 35mm camera.
The camera allows for setting of between 1 second and 12 seconds. The
instruction manual specifically warns you that it may take up to three
hours to expose 12 seconds of film in extremely low light situations.
For this reason alone, I would highly recommend getting yourself a
Bauer
Royal
series
or a
Bauer
A509
or
A512 camera.
Some
Nizo models
also offer a similar function but they typically sell for much more
than the Bauers.
As far as style
goes, the Bauers have that certain "kitsch" look.
The smooth shape, the silvery body combined with the nice touches of
black, topped off with a gold crown emblem all combine to create a
truly stylistic, if not ostentatious, machine. It is obvoius that much
thought went into the design of these cameras. Compare this to the
crude squareness of a B&H Filmosonic or the angular lines of a
Leicina Special with its cryptic nomenclature and off-balance design
that literally requires the user to use his or her forehead to hold
the camera steady, and I think you will see that the Bauer is a well
thought out machine.
The best part
about all of the Bauers is that they require only AA batteries.
No special button cells are used in their entire range of cameras.
My 8E uses six AA batteries, two of which are inserted
directly
into the camera body as opposed to the four that go in the handle.
Most Bauers have front elements that are rather small due to their
typical f1.8 or f1.7 aperture. However, this is useful for keeping
the overall design small and well balanced. As this is not an XL camera,
the need for a faster lens is not required. The timer function overcomes
this problem by making the shutter measurement irrelevant due to its
open-as-long-as-necessary capability. Finally, having a non-XL (160
degree?) shutter allows this camera to perform well in outdoor situations
particularly
if you have fast moving subjects. Just
be sure to use a tripod with that 7.5-60mm lens on the 8E. By the way,
the 10E zooms from 7mm to
70mm.
Other than the
timer function, the Royal 8E Makro offers a variable shutter, single
frame, 12, 18,
24,
and 54fps capabilities
and macro shots to the front element. The
aperture can be set manually from the top of the camera or left in
auto mode.
There is
a variable zoom speed but I found little difference between the extremes.
As is the case with all super 8 cameras, the zoom is far too fast to
put into actual use while rolling film.
This brings up
one wish. That is, I wish that all power zooms would have been removed
from the design
of the cameras (both regular and super 8) and instead replaced with
a decent sized zoom "stick." It seems every movie camera
manual specifically states that it is preferred the you do NOT zoom
during filming but rather use it as a framer prior to shooting. Obviously,
the general public fell in love with zooming while filming and I would
bet dealers at the time must of had a hard time selling consumers on
cameras that had slower-than-average zooms. The
customer would have thought that camera was broken and would opt
for a faster zoom on a
different camera. Some cameras even went so far as to not allow a
power-assisted zoom UNLESS the camera was running. Talk about a backwards
implementation
of an application! This is a good example of where more is not always
better.
Some important technical specfications from the manual are as follows:
- Films: 17 and 23 DIN only
- Running Speeds:
12, 18, 24, 54
- Animation:
Single Frame
- Intervalometer
(6 frames per second to 1 frame per minute)
- Automatic Time
Exposure: 1/10 second through 1 minute per FRAME.
- Aperture: f1.8
through f22
- Lens: 7.5mm
- 60mm; 49mm filter thread
- Macrophotography:
1.5m to front of lens element
- Lap dissolves/Double
exposures
- Variable shutter
(uknown size)
My
initial results were nice but I was unhappy about the giant hair
hanging down one-third
of the
way into
my image from the top frame
line. That was my mistake. I should have carefully blown the film
opening clear as well as used a blunt toothpick to clear the edges
from buildup.
Live and learn as they say. Otherwise my images were quite sharp
and very similar to how I remember the day. A sunny winter's day
with some
haze in the sky were faithfully reproduced on K40. They were not
the most contrasty of scenes (in this sense I use the degree of contrast
as a good thing) but then again it may have been the time of day
(almost
noon during the winter). Of course, today as I write this essay,
the windy blue sky beckons me to do some "stock" sky and
tree shots but that will have to wait until another day. And before
I forget,
this this camera also offers a time-lapse setting with a dial that
lets you adjust the rate to your liking.
Will
this camera become my daily user? Oh yes! However, I want to run
a few more test scenes to get better acquainted with the newest member
of my
super 8 family. Now let's hope there is a way to get rid of that
pesky hair hanging down on my finished film. I am thinking a NLE
should offer some ability to manipulate the scenes. I
may even use the scenes as cut outs and superimpose them on another.
Lots of ideas, just wish I had the time. It looks
like a new computer
may be in my future!
Finally, in case
you haven't got the message, do not pass up on a chance to pick
up this great camera. You will not be
disappointed. Happy Film Shooting!
Cheers,
Super 8 Man - Michael Nyberg
February 2004 |
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